GOurMeT TOur OF LIGurIa WITh LucIO GaLLeTTO
Transcripción
GOurMeT TOur OF LIGurIa WITh LucIO GaLLeTTO
M a r c h – J u n e 2 014 GOURMET TOUR OF LIGURIA WITH LUCIO GALLETTO Exploring the food, drinks and produce of a new area is half the fun of travelling, isn’t it? In fact, for many it’s the reason for travelling! But it takes a lot of research to make the most of your precious holiday time and find out-of-the-way, authentic food experiences. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to explore a great food destination with a guide who knows the area well, who can take you to farms and artisanal producers that don’t normally open their doors to the public, who knows the perfect little spot for an afternoon aperitivo and then shows you what to do with all that amazing new produce so that together you whip up a delicious dinner to enjoy with lovely local wines. Sounds like your ideal holiday? Then join Lucio Galletto from Lucio’s Italian Restaurant in Paddington on a tour of his home region, Liguria, for just 10 guests. We’ll be staying in Lucio’s hometown, the fishing village of Bocca di Magra, on the Italian Riviera at the mouth of the Magra River, with the spectacular Apuan Alps as a backdrop. We’ll spend our mornings (and some entire days) exploring the area, and afternoons cooking Ligurian specialties (little known outside the region) at Lucio’s family’s beachside restaurant just across the road from our hotel (or just relaxing if you prefer). Lucio’s brother will take us mushroom foraging in the nearby hills and the restaurant’s chef will teach us to make pizza in the family’s wood-fired oven. We’ll visit the still-working Fantiscritti marble quarry in Carrara, where Michelangelo personally selected his pieces of the mountain, lunch in little undiscovered bays, shop in local markets, visit artisans, chefs and ancient ruins, with Lucio as our guide. Highlights include the historic and elegant town of Sarzana, whose cathedral holds the oldest ~ Lucio Galletto ~ known painted Italian crucifix (dated 1138); an afternoon among the gorgeous shops of Portofino; a visit to the last maker of Corzetti stamps in Italy (used for printing designs on local coin-shaped pasta); a stroll through Forte Dei Marmi, absolutely the best market in the area for everything from cashmere to cheesecloth, lace to lycra; Pietrasanta, ‘the city of artists’, a commune town of international artists working in bronze and marble; and of course the World Heritage listed Cinque Terra and Porto Venere. $9,500/person includes all accommodation, most meals and beverages, transport, entry fees and activities for 12 days and 11 nights (29 September-10 October 2014), plus transfers to/from nearest airport or railway station (airfares not included). Email [email protected] or call 9004 1111 to register your interest now. WHAT’S HAPPENING AT SSS We’re in for an exciting few months of cooking with an all-star cast of guest chefs, including Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater), Shaun Presland (Saké), Christine Manfield, Eugenio Maiale (A Tavola), Nathan Johnson (Felix Bistro), Mark Best (Marque), Andy Evans (Spice Temple), Mark Jensen (Red Lantern), Frank Camorra (MoVida), Phil Wood (Rockpool), Dan Hong (Mr Wong), Louis Tikram (Longrain), Jonathan Barthelmess (The Apollo) with Janni Kyritsis, David Thompson (nahm, Bangkok), Clayton Wells (Momofuku Seiōbo), Lucio Galletto (Lucio’s Italian Restaurant), Alessandro Pavoni (Ormeggio at the Spit), Stefano Manfredi (Balla) and Kumar Mahadevan (Aki’s). Looking for something different to do on a Friday night? Check out our new Mystery Box Challenge (11 April) for a fun evening of competition, cooking, eating and socialising. Bring your own team of 4-6 people, or join up with some new foodie friends on the night to see who can create the most impressive dish from the mystery box of ingredients. Or, if you’re inclined to reach for your phone or camera before your knife and fork, posting your culinary delights on social media for all to enjoy … learn a few tricks of the trade from professional photographer and social media veteran, Franz Scheurer, at the new Food Photography Workshop (16 May). And, with so many classes to choose from, cooking class gift certificates are the perfect gift for the hard-to-shop-for-foodies in your life! Happy cooking, Roberta Muir, Manager Sydney Seafood School & FISHline ~ fe a t u re s p e c i e s ~ PRAWNS Found from Greenland to the tip of South America, Prawns are one of the most versatile and widely available seafoods in the world. Storing Store cooked or raw prawns in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days, and frozen for up to 3 months below -18˚C. Peel them just before using. Do not refreeze thawed prawns. There are hundreds of different species, living mostly in salt, or brackish, waters, with a few freshwater varieties found in rivers and lakes. They range from the tiny specimens used for making prawn paste to giants as large as small lobsters. When raw (called ‘green’), they vary in colour from translucent through grey-green to bright red, though, as with all crustaceans, they take on shades of reddish brown to bright orange when cooked. The most common commercial prawns in Australia are: • Tiger Prawns (Penaeus monodon, P.esculentus, P.semisulcatus) are the most common aquaculture prawns in Australia. Their distinct striped shells give them their name, and shell colour can vary from black/green (P.monodon), to brown (P.esculentus) or green (P.semisulcatus). • K ing Prawns (Melicertus latisulcatus, M.plebejus, M.longistylus) have a cream to light brown body and are generally sold larger than tiger prawns. The legs and tailfin are a distinctive bright blue in the Western variety (M.latisulcatus) and cream in the Eastern (M.plebejus). • Redspot (M.longistylus), often sold smaller than the others, have a distinctive red spot on each side of their body shell. • Banana Prawns (Fenneropenaeus indicus, F.merguiensis) caught off northern Australia, are translucent to yellow in colour with tiny dark spots. • School Prawns (Metapenaeus macleayi, M.dalli, M.bennettae, M.insolitus), are mostly trawled or netted in estuaries south of Noosa. Bay Prawns (M.bennettae and M.insolitus) with translucent brown to green speckled bodies and green tips on their tail fans are sometimes marketed separately. 2 prawns will toughen if reheated; already cooked prawns are good for salads, sandwiches, or eaten cold with a dipping sauce. In cooked or raw prawns look for firmly attached heads and tight, firm shells with a good sheen. There shouldn’t be any blackening (a sign of oxidation), and they should have a pleasant ‘fresh sea’ smell. Buy 1kg of prawns in the shell to get about 450g of meat. ~ Cooked Tiger Prawns ~ Other prawns occasionally seen in retail shops or harvested recreationally in various parts of Australia include: • Endeavour Prawns (Metapenaeus endeavouri, M.ensis), have a pale brown to pink body with either a bright blue (M.endeavouri) or bright red (M.ensis) edge to their tail fins. Caught off the northern coast of Australia, they too can be sold as School Prawns. • Scarlet Prawns (Aristaeopsis edwardsiana) are a by-catch of deep-sea trawling. Dark red, even when raw, they have very firm flesh, almost the texture of lobster, and are highly prized. • Royal Red (Haliporoides sibogae), trawled mostly off the south coast of NSW, are pink to red even when raw, with a thin shell. Usually sold frozen as they deteriorate very quickly, they’re an inexpensive alternative if prawn meat is to be chopped or minced. Buying Prawns are highly perishable in their raw state and so are usually frozen or boiled at sea or as soon as they are harvested. Buy green (raw) prawns to cook, as cooked Cooking & Serving When peeling green prawns, break the head off, hold the body straight and gently pull the protruding end of the digestive tract, it will usually come out in one go. If it breaks off, use a thin skewer to hook it out from the back of the prawn, or make a small incision along the back and remove it. In cooked prawns, the back has to be cut open to remove the digestive tract. Very small prawns are sometimes fried and eaten shell and all, while larger prawn heads are sometimes cooked on a barbecue until very crisp (teppanyaki-style). Prawns require very little cooking and will continue to cook in the residual heat once they are removed from the pan; so undercook rather than overcook them. Versatile prawns are popular in almost every cuisine and are suitable for most cooking styles. Tomalley, the coral or mustard in prawn heads, adds a concentrated prawn flavour when cooked and gives the distinctive taste to bisques and shellfish reductions. Prawn Talk The edible body of the prawn is sometimes referred to as the ‘tail’. ‘Butterflied’ prawns (also called prawn cutlets) are peeled, with tail intact, split down the back and flattened out. There is some confusion between the words ‘prawn’ and shrimp’. In the United States ‘shrimp’ is the common term, even for large specimens often referred to as ‘jumbo shrimp’. In Britain, ‘shrimp’ is used for smaller specimens while ‘prawn’ refers to the larger ones. In Australia, ‘prawn’ is used for all sizes. DEEP-FRIED CHILLI SALT SCHOOL PRAWNS Tiny little school prawns, small enough to eat head and all, are a real treat. Of course this recipe can also be used for larger peeled prawns, chunks of fish, strips of squid, scallops or even mussels removed from their shells. Add more chilli if you feel like a little more heat! SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 600g small green school prawns 2 cups tapioca starch Salt flakes, to serve Lime wedges, to serve ~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~ PRAWN SALAD WITH CHILLI, CUCUMBER & WATERCRESS You don’t even need to turn the stove on to make this quick and delicious salad, and it can be prepared a few hours before you want to serve it – perfect for summer entertaining. Bugs, marron, redclaw, rocklobsters and yabbies are also great served this way. SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE 700g large cooked prawns, peeled and deveined, tails intact ½ long red chilli, halved, seeded, cut into thin strips 2 small cucumbers, halved, seeded and finely sliced ¼ cup mint leaves 1 cup watercress sprigs 2 tablespoons roasted unsalted peanuts, finely chopped Chilli Salt ¼ cup salt flakes ¼ cup chilli powder Make Chilli Salt: crush salt and combine well with chilli powder. Heat oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 190˚C. Combine tapioca starch and Chilli Salt in a plastic bag. Add prawns and shake to coat well. Tip into a fine sieve and shake off the excess mixture. Lower the prawns into the oil in batches and fry for 30-60 seconds, until they change colour and begin to float. Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with salt flakes. Serve immediately with lime wedges. Wine suggestion: Everyone loves Champagne and G.H. Mumm Brut Rosé – with its beautiful colour, perfect tiny bubbles and dry, fruit-forward flavours – lifts this fun dish to a whole new level. www.ghmumm.com Asian Dressing 1 tablespoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon palm sugar 3 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon very finely chopped lemongrass, white part only 2 golden shallots, finely sliced 3 small red chillies, seeded and roughly chopped Make the Asian Dressing: combine all ingredients and set aside. Add prawns to the dressing. Add the chilli, cucumber, mint, watercress and two-thirds of the peanuts. Gently toss to mix well. Arrange on serving plates or a large platter and sprinkle with the remaining peanuts. Wine suggestion: This dish needs acid and a touch of sweetness and Grosset Alea Riesling is a wonderful match for the heat and saltiness … an intriguing wine for an intriguing dish. www.grosset.com.au ~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~ 3 COMPETITION TELL US WHAT YOU THINK FOR A CHANCE TO WIN! CONNECT WITH US ON YOUR FAVOURITE SOCIAL MEDIA AND GO INTO A DRAW TO WIN A SYDNEY SEAFOOD SCHOOL PACKAGE WORTH OVER $350 We no longer just quietly enjoy experiences … these days everyone’s letting the world know what they’re up to on Facebook, Twitter, google+, Instagram, Pinterest, Trip Advisor, Findery, Yelp, Four‑square... and more. Whatever’s your social media of choice, we’d love to hear from you – post a photo, a review or a comment about Sydney Seafood School on one (or more) of your favourite social media then send an email to [email protected] to let us know and you’re in the running to win! While you’re there, remember to ‘like’ us, ‘follow’ us or ‘check in’. Connect with us on Social Media between 1 December 2013 and 30 June 2014 and go into the monthly draw to win a $310 Sydney Seafood School gift voucher and an autographed copy of the Sydney Seafood School Cookbook (RRP $49.99) Like us at www.facebook.com/SydneySeafoodSchool Follow us on Twitter @Seafood_School Terms and Conditions: 1. Sydney Seafood School Social Media Promotion entry is open to all Australian residents. 2. To participate in this promotion and be eligible to win entrants must post a comment or photo about Sydney Seafood School on a social media site and then notify the School by email to [email protected] between midnight on 01 December 2013 and midnight on 30 June 2014. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 13 years of age or older. 4. Prizes will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 (first draw 13/01/14 and then first business day of EACH month until end of promotion). The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 5. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 6. You must ensure that all care is taken when posting a comment or photo. An entry is not deemed to have been received unless an email is received to notify Sydney Seafood School and the post is visible on the nominated site. 7. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility for any entry not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of entries due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All entries are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 8. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entries confidential. 9. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible to enter. 10. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/13/01874. FAQ – Answers to Frequently Asked Questions Check the FAQ pages in the FISHline section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if you can’t find the answer there, email your question to [email protected] What’s the best way to carry my seafood home? Seafood will stay fresh longer if it’s kept cold. Bring a chiller bag or esky with an ice brick in it when shopping for seafood, or at least ask your fishmonger to wrap a small bag of ice up with your purchase. FISHline insulated carry bags are available from Sydney Seafood School for $5. How do I get the skin on pan-fried fish really crisp, like they do in restaurants? First pat the skin with paper towel to make sure it’s as dry as possible. Then sprinkle it with salt (and pepper if you like, some chefs say a thin dusting of plain flour helps too). Next, get your pan really hot, add a small amount of oil then put the fish in 4 skin-side down and gently press with an egg slice to prevent the skin curling. Reduce heat to medium-high and cook the fish three-quarters of the way through on the skin-side, you should start to see the flesh turning opaque around the edges of the fillet, indicating that it’s cooked through, then turn the fish over to just finish cooking (1-2 minutes). Don’t be afraid of a hot pan and resist the urge to turn the fish too soon, and you’ll have crisp skin like the professionals. Another trick chefs often use is to cook the fish skin-side down in an oven-proof frying pan for a minute or 2, then put the pan into a 200°C oven for 5 minutes or so until just cooked through … this way there’s no need to turn the fish over at all and the skin protects the delicate flesh from the heat of the pan. My seafood smells ‘fishy’, is it OK to eat? In many ways your nose is the best indicator of whether or not seafood is fresh. Only stale seafood smells ‘fishy’, fresh seafood has little aroma except for a slight fresh ‘sea’ smell. Other signs of freshness include bright shiny skin or shell, and in the case of fillets and steaks, bright lustrous flesh that doesn’t look dried out or discoloured. If there’s a bloodline, it should be bright red rather than dark or browning. Some people say bright eyes are a good indicator, but eyes can go cloudy if they come into contact with ice, so cloudy eyes alone don’t indicate that the fish is stale. Most importantly ‘the nose knows’, if it smells ‘fishy’, it’s past its prime! ~ classic dish ~ LAKSA LEMAK Most laksas are more like a meal than a soup, due to the noodles, and are popular for breakfast, lunch, dinner or as a filling snack. Seafood is the most common variety, but vegetarian and chicken versions are also popular. Traditionally, in Singapore at least, laksa is eaten with a Chinese soup spoon and a pair of chopsticks. SERVES 6 ~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~ LAKSA Laksa is a perfect example of Nonya cuisine, which evolved through the marriage of the local Straitsborn women of Singapore, Malacca and Penang to Chinese merchants who settled in this region from the 15th century onwards. In the 19th century, British colonists encouraged another influx of Chinese immigrants to work on plantations, in tin-mining and as traders and many of these men also married local women. Over time a new race, called the Peranakan (literally ‘descendants’ in Malay), was formed. The women became known as Nonyas, and the men as Babas. The Nonya women adapted traditional Chinese cooking methods such as stir-frying and steaming and combined their familiar curry pastes (made by blending herbs, spices and aromatic vegetables) with the typically Chinese ingredients that their husbands brought with them (such as noodles, soy sauce and tofu) to create a unique cuisine found only in this region. With the addition of local produce such as coconut milk and seafood, a delicious soup was born. As with all traditional dishes, there are as many varieties of laksa as there are cooks. There are however some distinct regional variations: • Laksa Lemak (see recipe at right) originated in Singapore and around the Straits of Malacca, which separate Malaysia from Sumatra. Lemak means ‘creamy’ and this rich coconut milkbased soup is the version best known in Australia. • Penang Laksa, also called Laksa Assam, from the northern state of Penang near the Thai border, has a strong sour element from tamarind and doesn’t contain coconut milk. • Johor Laksa, from the southern state of Johor, also uses tamarind instead of lime as a souring agent, but does contain coconut milk. If you enjoy Singaporean food, check out our Chilli Crab classes held each month. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book. ½ cup vegetable oil 1 cup laksa paste 1.5 litres chicken stock 750ml coconut milk 450g fish balls (see notes) 30 medium green prawns, peeled and deveined 300g flat rice noodles, soaked in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, until soft 6 deep-fried tofu puffs, shredded 6 green onions, sliced finely on the diagonal 1½ cups bean sprouts, tailed 3 limes, juiced ¼ cup fish sauce 1 bunch Vietnamese mint, to serve 1 bunch coriander, to serve 1 Lebanese cucumber, deseeded and shredded Sambal oelek, to serve 1½ limes, cut into wedges, to serve Heat oil in a wok. Add laksa paste and fry for 5-10 minutes, until oil floats to the top and it smells aromatic. Add chicken stock and coconut milk, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add fish balls, simmer for 2 minutes then add prawns, increase heat and return to the boil then remove from heat. Cover to keep warm. Divide drained rice noodles between 6 deep bowls, add tofu, green onions and bean sprouts. Stir half the lime juice and fish sauce through the soup, taste and add more if needed. Ladle soup into bowls and top with Vietnamese mint, coriander, cucumber, sambal oelek and lime wedges. Notes: Use a good commercial laksa paste (such as Ayam or Charmaine Solomon’s) or make your own by processing 3 red onions, the white part of 3 stalks of lemongrass, 12 candlenuts, 6 cloves garlic, a grated 4cm piece of galangal, 1½ tablespoons grated turmeric, 12 dried long red chillies (deseeded and soaked), ¾ tablespoon blachan, 3 tablespoons ground coriander and ½ teaspoon salt into a coarse paste. Fish balls are available from the chiller cabinet of Asian grocers. Wine suggestion: This soup has very complex flavours and Tower Estate 2013 Moscato, with its fresh, zesty, slightly sweet, effervescence complements it perfectly. www.towerestatewines.com 5 ~ c h e f p ro f i l e ~ GIOVANNI PILU from PILU AT FRESHWATER Giovanni Pilu was born in Sardinia and arrived in Australia in 1992 full of enthusiasm and passion for the unique flavours of his homeland. He believes Sardinian cooking should involve simple ingredients, prepared with minimum fuss, allowing the full flavour of the ingredients to speak for themselves. At his first restaurant, Cala Luna in Mosman, which he opened in 1997, he presented a broad Italian menu, slowly introducing Sydney diners to Sardinian specialties such as fregola (toasted, couscous-like pasta) and bottarga (air-dried mullet roe). Since opening Pilu at Freshwater in 2004, he’s expanded his Sardinian repertoire, cooking more of the food that’s in his blood and close to his heart, and even offering a 6-course Sardinian tasting menu with matched Sardinian wines. Rugged, isolated, untamed Sardinia has two distinct cuisines: coastal and inland. Many Sardinians have traditionally lived in the mountains as shepherds and farmers, and so, unusually for island dwellers, their cooking has been based on meat (pork, lamb and wild game), sheep’s cheese (pecorino) and fregola. The coastal cuisine has been influenced by many invaders, from the Phoenicians, through Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Genovese and Catalans, to the modern Italians, all of whom brought with them different ways of preparing the island’s abundant seafood harvest. Pilu at Freshwater, a beautifully restored heritage-listed weatherboard beach house overlooking Freshwater Beach in Sydney’s north, is an idyllic setting for food from this Mediterranean island. Large windows let natural light in and allow diners to gaze out, while a light bright colour scheme adds to the relaxed, beach house feel. Over the years, Giovanni’s cooking has evolved from a simple presentation of Sardinian classics, such as baked whole baby snapper with vernaccia wine and green SERVES 6 AS AN ENTRÉE 700g cuttlefish, cleaned ⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 small brown onion, finely diced 30g semi-sun-dried cherry tomatoes, chopped ½ cup basil leaves ½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 160g fregola Salt flakes, to taste Cut cuttlefish hood into 2cm dice and cut tentacles into 2cm lengths. ~ Giovanni Pilu ~ olives (still on the menu) to include more modern techniques and presentations. A broth (‘brodo’ in Italian) made by infusing pecorino to extract it’s sweet, nutty, cheesy flavour is combined with hand-rolled fregola pasta, smoked pumpkin, chestnuts and lemon thyme, to create a superb dish that is at once distinctively Sardinian (the pecorino, fregola and chestnuts) and decidedly modern (a cheese soup? smoked pumpkin?). More and more of this skilful blending of the old and the new is appearing on the Pilu menu. The focus on previously unknown Sardinian beverages is also an exciting point of difference, with the restaurant exclusively importing many of the 70 or so Sardinian wines they serve, as well as offering a range of artisanal Sardinian beers. But changes are gradual and subtle and the brief, frequently-changing menu manages to keep both traditionalists and innovators happy, offering a more-or-less classic ‘porcetto arrosto’, slow-roasted suckling pig, served on the bone with scented apple sauce, alongside a more modern scampi crudo with pickled cauliflower, cime di rapa and horseradish cream. And come dessert time, there’s ‘seadas ripiena di ricotta’, traditional Sardinian deep-fried pastries filled with ricotta and sultanas drizzled with warm bitter honey, for those after the comfort of the familiar, and chestnut mousse with crumble, pistachio sponge and pumpkin gelato for those seeking a little more excitement. Visit www.piluatfreshwater.com.au for more information. On The Beach, Moore Rd, Freshwater NSW 2096, (02) 9938 3331 Lunch: Tue-Sun 12-3pm; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-9pm See Giovanni at Sydney Seafood School on 15 March. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book. 6 SEPIA E FREGOLA by GIOVANNI PILU Heat oil in a frying pan, add cuttlefish and cook over a medium heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add onion, tomato, basil and parsley and cook for 5 minutes. Add enough water to just cover ingredients, bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 8 minutes, adding a little more water if it starts to dry out. Add fregola and increase heat a little so that the water just bubbles. Cook for about 6 minutes, until fregola is tender, adding a little more boiling water if it dries out too much before the fregola is cooked; it should be quite wet but not brothy. Taste and add salt, drizzle with oil and serve. Wine suggestion: We don’t drink anywhere near enough rosé in Australia and Piggs Peake 2011 Crackling Rose, made from 100% cabernet, brings out all the flavours in this dish and lifts it to another dimension. www.piggspeake.com ~ Pilu at Freshwater ~ ~ co o k i n g s t y l e ~ STIR-FRYING Stir-frying is a Chinese cooking method, developed to prepare food in areas where fuel was scarce. The traditional wok is a wide, thin metal pot, which heats rapidly and evenly, so that food can be cooked quickly over a high heat. It is quick, simple and retains the freshness, texture, flavour and goodness of the food being cooked. Today, woks come in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials. If you have a gas stove, all you need is a traditional thin carbon steel wok available cheaply in Chinatown. These woks need to be ‘seasoned’ before use. Wash well in warm soapy water and dry thoroughly. Heat the wok, add 2 tablespoons of oil and wipe it all over the inside of the wok with paper towel. Continue to heat the wok for 10-15 minutes. Wipe out with paper towel, cool and repeat the process. The wok is now ready to use. After using the wok, wash, place over heat for a few minutes to dry thoroughly, then wipe the inside surface with a little oil to prevent rusting. TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL STIR-FRYING: • The key is organisation – have all ingredients prepared in small bowls beside the wok ready to be added; combine things that are to be added at the same time (such as sauce ingredients). • Cut all seafood, meat and vegetables into even bite-sized pieces. • The wok must be hot, it should sizzle when the food is added. The Chinese talk about ‘wok hei’, the breath of the wok, which is the smoky flavour imparted to the food from a really hot wok. The food must fry, not stew, so if cooking a large quantity, cook it in batches so that the wok stays hot. • As the wok is hot, it is important to keep the food moving so it doesn’t burn – use a chan (metal, shovel-like utensil used for tossing ingredients in a wok) to lift the ingredients up allowing other ingredients to come into contact with the surface of the wok. Remember the food will cook by coming into contact with the sides as well as the base of the wok. • Food continues to cook in its residual heat once it’s removed from the wok, so don’t overcook it and serve it immediately. See the FISHline pages of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au for delicious stir-fry recipes, including: • Stir-Fried Blue Swimmer Crabs with Tamarind & Coconut • Pipis in Black Bean Sauce • Surf Clams with Onion, Pancetta & Paprika • Stir-Fried Squid with Black Beans, Bok Choy & Noodles • Stir-Fried Prawns with Red Capsicum & Broccolini • Cocktail Abalone with Asian Dressing • Stir-Fried Bailer Shell with Garlic Shoots ~ Photo by Franz Scheurer ~ STIR-FRIED CUTTLEFISH, ASPARAGUS & OYSTER MUSHROOMS WITH NOODLES Serves 2 375g cuttlefish, cleaned 400g Hokkien noodles ¼ cup peanut oil 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely grated ginger 130g snow peas, halved 1 bunch green asparagus, thinly sliced diagonally ½ cup water chestnuts, sliced 180g oyster mushrooms, halved 2 tablespoons oyster sauce 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 2 tablespoons shao xing Chinese rice wine 1 tablespoon sesame oil 3 green onions, thinly sliced diagonally Score the inside of the cuttlefish hood with angled cuts to form a crosshatched pattern. Slice the hood into strips. Cover noodles with boiling water for 3-4 minutes then drain well. Heat a wok over a high heat. Add oil then cuttlefish and stir-fry for about 1 minute, until just opaque. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add garlic and ginger, cook for 30 seconds then add snow peas, asparagus, water chestnuts and mushrooms. Cook for 1 minute, then add oyster and soy sauces, shao xing and sesame oil. Add noodles and stir to coat well in the sauce. Stir in cuttlefish. Tip onto a serving platter, top with green onions and serve immediately. Wine Suggestion: The subtlety of Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Viognier works beautifully with the asparagus and oyster mushrooms in this dish. www.wirrawirra.com Learn another great stir-fry dish in our regular Fast & Fabulous classes. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or by calling 9004 1111 during office hours. 7 ~ b o o k re v i e w ~ SNAPPER POACHED IN TOMATO WITH BASIL & OLIVES Serves 4 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 small brown onion, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 24 ripe cherry tomatoes, halved 1 cup basil leaves 100 ml dry white wine 20 small green olives, pitted Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 4 × 160g pieces snapper fillet, skin off, pin-boned Heat oil over a low heat in a high-sided frying pan. Add onion and garlic and fry until soft and fragrant. Add tomato, basil, wine and olives and a couple of good pinches of salt and simmer for about 5 minutes, until the tomatoes have fallen apart. Arrange the pieces of fish on top so they are not touching each other, spoon some of the tomato sauce over them, reduce heat to very low, cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes. Taste, add salt, if needed, and a few good turns of pepper. Serve immediately. Recipe from Stefano Manfredi's Italian Food by Stefano Manfredi (Allen & Unwin, 2013). Wine SuggestioN: Fiano is an under appreciated variety, and Liz Richardson Fiano la Bambina 2013 (available through Naked Wines) is subtle enough not to overshadow the fish but strong enough to cope with the tomato/olive combo. Free subscription to FISHline News If you’d like to receive a copy of FISHline News and the Sydney Seafood School program of classes 3 times a year, please email your details to [email protected]. A full program of classes and FISHline recipes, storage tips and species information are available at www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au. CONTACT US Sydney Fish Market (ABN 24 064 254 306) CALL Reception +61 2 9004 1100 FISHline +61 2 9004 1122 Seafood School +61 2 9004 1111 EMAIL [email protected] WRITE Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont, NSW 2009, Australia VISIT Cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont WEBSITE www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au FACEBOOK ‘Like’ us at www.facebook.com/SydneyFishMarket & www.facebook.com/SydneySeafoodSchool TWITTER Follow us @SydFishMarket & @Seafood_School Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day (except Christmas Day) Disclaimer: The information in this newsletter is provided in good faith. While Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd makes reasonable efforts to ensure information in this newsletter is up to date and accurate, neither Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd nor any of its related bodies corporate (as defined in section 50 of Corporations Law) makes any representation or gives any warranty as to the currency, accuracy, reliability or completeness of any information in this newsletter. To the extent permitted by law, Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd accepts no responsibility or liability for any loss, damage or injury suffered by the user consequent upon, or incidental to, the information in this newsletter. 8 STEFANO MANFREDI’S ITALIAN FOOD In 1961, a young Stefano Manfredi arrived in Australia from northern Italy with his parents and brother. Food, always an integral part of their lives, became even more important … a way to stay connected to the world they’d left behind. In 2013, Manfredi celebrated 30 years in the restaurant business and released this comprehensive tome which covers all of Italy’s regions … from the tiny Valle d’Aosta pressed into the corner of the Swiss and French Alps, to sunny Sicily, the Mediterranean’s largest island, at the tip of Italy’s toe. Though handsomely packaged, this is not a coffee table book to be flicked through – rather an authoritative reference book that also deserves to have its pages smudged and streaked with cooking stains. There are few photos – of the 25-40 recipes listed for each region, only 3 or 4 are photographed. John Newton’s interesting and concise summary of 12,000+ years of Italian culinary history sets the scene before Manfredi guides us through classic and modern antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci recipes from each of Italy’s 20 regions. There’s a good summary of the basics of an Italian pantry, supplemented by breakout boxes on many classic grains, cheeses, spices and condiments. And it’s great to see Manfredi expose the myth that extra virgin olive oil shouldn’t be heated or used for deep-frying. Each chapter opens with an introduction to that region’s geography, food history, traditions and wines, plus there’s a chapter dedicated to Italian wine and the major grape varieties. With over 500 recipes from the grilled freshwater herrings of the Alpine lakes of TrentinoAlto Adige to Sardinia’s Catalan-style rocklobster, this smart book deserves a place on every foodlover’s book shelf. RRP: $59.95 (Allen & Unwin) ISBN: 9781743311172 Stefano will present some favourite seafood recipes from his new book on 28 June. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.